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By: Gale

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Dears,
I am no furrier but a dressmaker/designer form Steamboat Springs Colorado.

I was asked to remodel my first fur about 10 years ago. I spent a month gathering all the information I could find (one of my best resources was an OLD book about furriering that I got through a library lone from a college in Ft Collins) and study the how tos of working with fur.

My greatest screw up was to touch the hide side of a fur with my iron with the steam on. I immediately shrank an iron sized portion. Thank goodness My project was to make a vest from a coat, so I had spare fur to use. A man in St Louis MO at a fur storage place did tell me that he can repair this kind of damage.

A few tips from my decade of self taught fur repair and remodeling

* Check the pelt. If it is hard, papery, stiff or papery your work will be in vain as the stretchy give of a well maintained pelt is needed to hold up to the movement of the fur fabric in response to putting it on and taking it off, the general movement of the body in wearing, reaching, arm movement etc.

* I did find a post on reconditioning the leather of the fur using 2 parts olive oil and 1 part white vinegar sponged on and left for a week or so to soak in. Do nt take the oil too near the edges of the leather as it will naturally spread there (like a drop of water on a paper towel) and you want to avoid oiling the hair. I made a batch of this and was successful in returning “give” to the pelt though I do have some oil residue remaining which I need to figure out how to get rid of as it will stain the lining with oil otherwise.

* You can use iron on interfacing to support the leather ( I first saw this in an inexpensive coat that I repaired and since quite often in furs of many qualities which are new enough for fusibles to be available) ALWAYS use a dry iron, test on an inconspicuous spot and use a low a setting as possible to melt the “glue”

* As most of us do not have a furrier-ing serger I have been using my sewing machine and have done excellently with it.

- Work from the hide side of your fur to do repairs.
- CAREFULLY trim the hair from the edges of the tear you are needing to repair (1/8″ – 1/4″ of clipped hair works well)
- Match the torn edges (trim the edges as needed if they are raggedy) and carefully stitch the edges together with a narrow seam 18″-3/16″ wide.
I do not backstitch at the ends of my stitching, but tie the thread ends.
I use a stitch approximately 9 stitches per inch.
Carefully pick any hairs caught in your stitching out of the seam from the fur side. I usually use a tapestry (blunt point) or a pencil sharpened chop stick as my fur picker.

It is possible to pepair holes (the mouse or dog ate at your fur) but it is more complex than just repairing a tear.

Blessings, Gale


By: Gale

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anj

Also about the glue. It if is glue from a fusible fabric (a iron patch or hem tape try ironing it with a dry iron with a piece of paper between the iron and the hide. It is like ly the glue when it remelts will stick to the paper (this glue tends to migrate toward the heat source)

If the glue is glue gun or some other thing I am not sure what to try.

Blessings, Gale

By: Molly

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You can too use glue, just use something flexible which means with silicones in, and do it from the back. Try any silicone glue, and let it dry thoroughly. Shattered furs can sometimes be fixed this way, by gluing to a backing. You can even glue each side of a tear to a separate fabric backing and then after it dries stitch it together as usual. Don’t go overboard on the glue, use as little as possible to get the job done. It’s difficult to get through the glue, use a fine needle and a thimble. Success depends on how far gone the skin really is.

I hand repair all my furs when it comes to re-stitching linings or split seams. A fine #10 or #11 beading needle and either Nymo or Silamide beading thread works well – these are durable yet thin threads.

Furriers tumble furs in a huge drum to clean. The furs are placed in a bag with either sawdust or ground corncobs that has been mixed with solvent, then they are tumbled. The sawdust gets into the fur, the solvent removed dirt. Coarse cornmeal also works well. Not all furriers use a bag, but I would, cuts down on wear and tear on the furs.

Furriers also use a mixture of stuff including silicones to glaze furs. On something you don’t mind experimenting on, you could try spray silicone. You can also try it for softening a stiff skin instead of oil. I haven’t tried either of these yet, just read about them.
Best Wishes,
~ Molly

By: wes booth

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what do i use to condition the hyde?

By: Alex

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Hello!

My mother’s mink, rarely worn now, but with no repairs required and still very warming, has been well treated but has not been properly stored for some time. As a result, whereas before it used to be extremely light and had a wonderfully slinky sheen, it now looks rather dull and feels very, very heavy (building up of humidity etc?). Would sending to to a furrier restore it to something like its former condition? If so, could you recommend any in the UK?

Many thanks, in advance, for any advice you can give.

Alex.

By: Molly

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If you google lanasfur dot com you will find all sorts of do it yourself stuff, from fur cleaning and glazing to restoring dried pelts to odor removers. I have not tried any of these yet, but they look good.

It may have been mentioned already, but furs like to be kept cool and a bit humid to prevent dryness. Fur vaults are generally set at between 40 – 50 degrees with humidity at 45 – 55%. At home, use the coolest room or closet in your house.
~ Molly

By: Sharon Maxwell-Yamamoto

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Yes, I have seen Lana’s Fur website and asked them a long time ago to send me some products to test, but they never did. I can’t recommend them for this reason.

I am going to bring some of my best furs to storage by the end of this month, so yes, it has been discussed to keep it in a cool vault or at least a very cool room.

By: samantha anastasiou

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Hi Gale,
Thank you for so much information! I am wondering about the reconditioning, the olive oil and white vinegar… I am wondering why not a leather conditioner such as Bick or a good one like it? How did your fur turn out with the olive oil and vinegar? I noticed that you posted this almost a year ago. Many thanks!
Samantha


By: Samantha Anastasiou

By: Samantha Anastasiou

By: Samantha Anastasiou

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Hello,
Thank you so much for the information! Your job was amazing, I can’t even make out what the furrier did in the first picture?? What you did is amazing! Good for you! My question is, I have a spot where the hair is balding a bit, as it was stored improperly. When I got my coats out of storage (they were there much, much longer than I expected) they were wrinkled horribly, showing stiffness, and baldy patches where the hairs where shorter or falling out, or broken in one spot making a noticeable spot or patch on the coat. It’s also right in front of the coat, too in a very visible place. What do you suggest for this? Also, there have been comments about conditioning the skins, one mentioned an olive oil/white vinegar combination. What do you think of this and have you or has anyone you know tried it with good results? I was just wondering why a cooking/food oil would be used instead of a leather oil.
Thanks so much for the wonderful blog, it is great information, and fun to read.
Kind Regards,
Samantha

By: Samantha Anastasiou

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Oh, also how do you repair holes, and bald or patchy areas? I have one that is very visible due to my furs being stored improperly for too long, much longer than I anticipated, they came out wrinkled, starting to feel stiff and one mink having the patchy area.. =(

By: Alex

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Dear Molly,

Thank you for your advice.

Regards,

Alex.

By: Peter White

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I found the missing Vintage sewing info link on furs, fine leather and feather cleaning too from the 1930′s, great stuff and thanks for all the info from this site.

http://web.archive.org/web/20070102004532/http://www.vintagesewing.info/1930s/31-ldc/ldc-toc.html

http://web.archive.org/web/20070102151842/http://www.vintagesewing.info/1930s/31-ldc/ldc-14.html

1931 – Laundering and Dry Cleaning
Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences, by Mary Brooks Picken
Cleaning Special Articles

FURS
85. Although silk and wool materials may be thoroughly washed by putting them through several cleaning baths and rubbing the spots as the work is proceeded with, it will be found that some very delicate fabrics might be injured by such handling. Again, it would not be practical to immerse some articles, such as furs, heavy coats, or mattresses, in a cleaning fluid, Such things may be surface cleaned very satisfactorily.

86. Cleaning White Plush and Fur.—A thin paste of gasoline and common wheat flour can be used for washing white beaver, white plush, and white fur. To make the paste, pour a pint of gasoline into a clean china bowl and put into it 2 tablespoonfuls of white flour. Stir the mixture until a thin, even paste is formed and then wash in it the materials that are to be cleaned. An oblong, shallow pan, such as a roasting or baking pan, makes the best container.

When the washing is finished, dry the materials thoroughly, first squeezing out as much as possible of the gasoline. Then brush the white fur or white plush with a stiff-bristle brush. However, if the fur is of the long-hair variety, it should be combed.

87. Cleaning Colored Furs With Bran.—Fur of any color may be cleaned with dry bran. Purchase a pound of clean bran at any feed store. Put it in a dry pan and set it inside the oven until it becomes heated to such a temperature that the hand cannot be held in it with comfort, as this insures its being thoroughly dry. Stretch the fur on an ironing board and hold it in place by pins set fairly close together, so that it is firmly fastened to the board. Brush the fur with a stiff-bristle brush, rub in thoroughly the heated bran, and brush again to remove the surplus bran. Then unpin the fur and shake it well to remove all evidences of the bran.

This method not only cleans the fur but makes it glossy. It can be applied to plush also, but plush requires an additional steaming process before the nap is sufficiently freshened.

88. Cleaning Furs With Corn-Meal.—Furs may be cleaned with corn-meal in the same way as with bran. Use white corn-meal for white or light furs; for darker furs, yellow is satisfactory. Heat the meal so that it is thoroughly dried and cover the fur with it. Let it stand 10 or 15 minutes and then take it out by brushing and shaking the fur thoroughly. Then put the fur out in the air.

89. Cleaning Furs With Fullers’ Earth.—Fullers’ earth is often used for cleaning furs, especially when they are very soiled. Use the fullers’ earth as any of the other absorbents.

90. Cleaning Furs With Cleaning Oils.—If absorbents are not effective, furs may first be put through the cleaning baths and then, after drying, treated with corn-meal. It must be remembered that furs put in cleansers must be subjected to heat after evaporation for a greater length of time than fabrics in order to deodorize them thoroughly.

91. Cleaning Furs With Commercial Preparations.—Besides the simple, home methods that have been described, there are commercial preparations that may be bought from any drug store and used successfully according to the directions that accompany them.

It then goes on to Gloves and feathers etc.

By: Sharon Maxwell-Yamamoto

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Hello readers,

I wrote this article several years ago and while I appreciate knowing that it’s still being read, I think it’s gotten a tiny bit out of control as far as becoming a blog of sorts for the public. I need to say here that the advice given by readers in the comments section, unless I answer it and say I agree with it, does not reflect my views and I do not take any responsibility for its accuracy or advisability.

Regarding the links that were posted today describing cleaning with a paste of gasoline and such for furs, I ABSOLUTELY DO NOT RECOMMEND TRYING THIS AT HOME. The old books often gave instructions on cleaning and cooking, and left out some vital information about how to do it. If you’ll notice, there is no information about how to REMOVE said paste from the white fur or plush. DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGE TO ANYBODY’S FURS DUE TO THEIR FOLLOWING SOME ADVICE POSTED BY OTHERS. I personally bring mine to a furrier. This article is on how to repair fur yourself, not clean it.

Thank you for reading my articles and thank you for visiting Worthpoint!

Sincerely,
Sharon Maxwell-Yamamoto


By: Sharon Maxwell-Yamamoto

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Marmot looks more like squirrel, while the fur she described had stripes of some sort. Marmot is also soft, not coarse like Muskrat..

Regrds,
Sharon

By: patricia

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Greetings Sharon. Thanks everso for the info on EZ Persian lamb fixes. I am on a very fixed income and appreciate anything I can do myself.

I have a couple quarter-size patches of curls pulling up on my gorgeous 40s Persian raglan. Skin seems too fragile to attempt sewing.

What do you think of the suggestions of using silicone glue? And what about the silicone spray in place where the sheen is gone? Or using silicon spray on the dry skin??

Again, many thanks. patricia

By: Jeanette Burton

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Hello Sharon,
I was an antique dealer that collected vintage furs for twenty plus years, I’m now a professional photographer and want to use some of the furs as props with the models. The problem is I have over 20 furs many dating as early as the 1900′s from Hudson seal to Ocelot, and monkey fur, even wolf that I brought back from my tour in Germany in the 1980′s.
Some of the furs now need seam repairs, I live in Ca, and furriers are not common. I’ve always stored the furs at my home with little problems, but putting them to work makes me concerned…any suggestions?
Thank you,
Jeanette Burton

By: Jennifer Macdonald

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Hi I have an old Musquash fur coat was my grans, can I repair it just with normal threads and needles its come undone under arms and some of the fur a bit thiner on back

ta

By: Rachael

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Hi, a friend has lent me a beautiful vintage fur wrap for a special occasion. I think it’s silver fox. The fur seems OK but the lining is quite grubby. Please can anyone advise on the best way to clean it up? Professional dry cleaners??
Thanks,
Rachael.

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